How to Choose Hoodie Fabric Weight (GSM) for Your Brand
Fabric weight is one of the first specs US buyers compare when developing hoodies. In this guide, Hengyue Knitwear breaks down 280, 320, 400 and 450 GSM from a sourcing perspective: hand feel, likely season use, and how to match weight to your brand positioning. We use our current hoodie range as examples, so you can align product development with real MOQ, lead time and customisation options.
What GSM means for hoodie buyers
GSM means grams per square meter. As GSM rises, fabric is generally heavier and more substantial in the hand. Lower GSM styles are easier to layer and pack; higher GSM styles feel more structured and are usually chosen when the hoodie itself is the main statement piece rather than a layering basic.
280 GSM hoodies: lighter layering option
A 280 GSM hoodie is typically the lightest option in a four-tier hoodie programme and is often used for transitional weather, gym-to-street assortments and promotional blanks. Our current confirmed product facts do not include a 280 GSM hoodie, so if this is your target, send your tech pack and target hand feel to confirm fabric sourcing, price, MOQ and sampling.
320 GSM French terry: cleaner hand feel for private label and team wear
Our French Terry Full-Zip Hoodie (SKU HD-ZP-320) is 320 GSM, 100% cotton French terry with a metal full-length zipper. This weight suits brands building a cleaner private-label or team-wear programme where the piece needs structure without moving into heavyweight fleece territory.
Best for: private label capsules, club and team wear, uniforms, and buyers who want a zip hoodie that can be decorated with embroidery or screen print. Ask our team whether 320 GSM French terry is the right middle point for your brand's year-round programme.
400 GSM brushed fleece: practical mid-heavyweight for cut-and-sew programmes
Our Heavyweight Fleece Pullover Hoodie (SKU HD-PO-400) is 400 GSM, 80% cotton / 20% polyester brushed fleece, cut and sewn to order for apparel brands and retailers. For many US labels, 400 GSM is the workhorse weight: substantial enough for fall and winter drops, while still workable across XS-3XL size runs and multiple decoration methods.
Best for: retailers and apparel brands needing a repeatable pullover programme, faster sampling than heavier garment-dyed styles, and decoration flexibility across screen print, embroidery, puff print and DTG.
450 GSM garment-dyed fleece: streetwear statement weight
Our Oversized Garment-Dyed Hoodie (SKU HD-OS-450) is 450 GSM, 100% cotton fleece, oversized with a drop shoulder and garment dyed for a washed streetwear look. At this weight, the hoodie becomes the product: the drape, washed colour and oversized block are part of the design, not just the blank.
Best for: streetwear labels, fashion capsules and premium drops where the washed oversized look is central. Plan around the longer lead time and approve samples before committing to colourways.
How to match GSM to your brand positioning
- Entry or layering basics: consider a lighter weight such as 280 GSM if your range needs easier layering; our current line does not include 280 GSM, so confirm feasibility by inquiry.
- Private label and team wear: 320 GSM French terry is a practical bridge between lightweight blanks and heavyweight fleece.
- Core retail programme: 400 GSM brushed fleece balances hand feel, size range XS-3XL, sampling in 7-10 days and broad decoration options.
- Streetwear or premium capsule: 450 GSM oversized garment-dyed fleece supports a washed look and custom dye colours, with MOQ from 200 pcs per colour.
- Always confirm shrinkage, colourfastness, care requirements and any compliance needs for your market before bulk approval.
Quick comparison for US buyers
- 320 GSM: French terry full-zip, 100% cotton, metal zipper, MOQ 300 pcs per style, lead time 30-40 days after sample approval.
- 400 GSM: brushed cotton/poly pullover, MOQ 300 pcs per style, sampling 7-10 days, lead time 25-35 days after sample approval.
- 450 GSM: oversized garment-dyed 100% cotton fleece, MOQ 200 pcs per colour, lead time 35-45 days after sample approval.
- 280 GSM: not included in the confirmed facts above; request sourcing details before quoting your customer.